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Terrarium and Vivarium Maintenance
By Devin Edmonds
The dream of many amphibian and reptile hobbyists is to create a complete living and thriving, self-sustaining, maintenance-free ecosystem that houses both live plants and animals. With proper planning it is possible to create a beautiful living terrarium that comes close the dreamed self-sustaining system. Beneficial micro-organisms and micro-fauna often play a large role in the health of a natural terrarium and do much of the work involved in maintaining it for the keeper. Unfortunately, these little creatures can’t do all the work, and some amount of upkeep is required by the caretaker in order to sustain a living terrarium or vivarium.
First off, what is a terrarium and how are they different from other types of cages? By definition, terrariums are miniature greenhouses. They are replicas of natural environments that contain live plants. The addition of live plants which help to breakdown waste in a cage is the difference between a terrarium and the average reptile or amphibian cage. A vivarium is a terrarium that is specifically designed to house and accommodate certain kinds of animals. Generally the focus of a vivarium are the animals that are being kept rather than the live plants. An aqua-terrarium or aqua-vivarium is a terrarium or vivarium that is designed for semi-aquatic plants and/or animals, and has a large water area and feature in it. The term paludarium is often used to describe two different types of enclosures. Most often it’s used to describe very large aqua-terrariums or aqua-vivariums that contain a variety of different habitats. Occasionally it is also used to describe an established vivarium that relies almost solely on beneficial bacteria and micro-fauna to maintain it. In all of the above habitats there is some maintenance required by the keeper. The actual amount of maintenance will vary depending on many things including the type of animal being kept, the amount of animals being kept, the amount and types of plants used, the size of the terrarium, the substrate, and other aspects of terrarium and vivarium design.
The most frequent kind of upkeep involved in most terrariums and vivariums besides basic plant and animal care (feeding animals, regulating correct temperature and humidity, etc.) is removing waste from the tank. When keeping insectivorous reptiles or amphibians, leftover dead feeder insects can create a lot of waste. Dead insects will often mold over in tropical terrariums and can become a source of unwanted waste. As a general rule dead insects should be removed from terrariums as soon as they are noticed. Fallen and rotting plants are another form of waste that is often overlooked. If a plant in the terrarium starts to rot or die it may need to be removed. A large dying plant in a small tank can create too much waste for the system to handle. Occasional fallen leaves usually don’t present a problem. Other common sources of waste that should be removed include large amounts of animal feces, shed skin, and infertile eggs.
A small amount of waste in a terrarium or vivarium is usually fine as long as the terrarium or vivarium is established. A terrarium that has had live plants in it for a few months will usually also have a large amount of beneficial bacteria and tiny little creatures that will help take care of and clean up some of the waste in the cage. Good micro-organisms can be introduced into the terrarium by mixing leaf compost from outside into the soil mixture. Unwanted micro-organisms can also be introduced along with desirable micro-organisms in leaf compost, and it’s important to understand this and weigh the risks before going out and grabbing a handful of leaf mold to toss into a tank. Unwanted pests include slugs, snails, and other animals that eat plants and reproduce easily, as well as possible parasites that could harm the plants and animals in the cage.
Water changes are another commonly overlooked part of keeping a healthy terrarium or vivarium. Just like in a simple amphibian or reptile cage, water changes need to be done regularly. Water dishes are very easy to change but often make a terrarium look unnatural. Instead of using a water dish, many people prefer to create a small pond or reservoir where water naturally collects in a lower part of the terrarium or vivarium. This works well and looks more attractive than a water dish, but it’s important that this water is still changed on a regular basis. When there is a large volume of well-oxygenated water, such in an aqua-vivarium or paludarium, it’s often best to rely on beneficial bacteria to control harmful waste in a similar way to that of an aquarium. In these setups partial water changes should be done every two to three weeks. Water tests should be done on a regular basis to ensure that good water quality is maintained. The use of a filter may also be helpful when a large volume of water is being used. When small volumes of water are present it is often a better idea to just do complete water changes often rather than partial changes infrequently. The addition of live aquatic and emergent vegetation will help reduce nitrates and make the water area more attractive.
The small volume of water in this terrarium is frequently removed using a turkey baster. The duckweed growing on its surface also helps to maintain good water quality.
Often the appearance of a healthy terrarium can be completely ruined if the glass is difficult to see through. Water spots are a common problem, and develop quickly if tap water or spring water is used to mist the terrarium. To help avoid this problem use distilled or reverse osmosis water to mist the terrarium. Condensation is inevitable and will always form on the front of the glass unless a large amount of ventilation is provided. Unfortunately, providing large vents or screen sections in the cage for ventilation can also drastically reduce the humidity in the terrarium in addition to preventing condensation from forming, and may not be practical for most terrariums or vivariums. Algae and cyanobacteria (blue green algae) often reek havoc on the glass of a terrarium, and may need to be wiped off frequently. Using a razor blade to scrape the front of the terrarium every week or two will help maintain good visibility by removing algae, mineral deposits, dirt, and other things that may make the glass difficult to see through. Do not use a razor blade on acrylic because it will scratch easily. Instead, using a paper towel or acrylic-safe algae pad to wipe the front of the tank can work well.
Many people new to terrarium keeping fear that the substrate of a living terrarium will need to be changed regularly like it does in a simple setup. Fortunately, in addition to being more attractive than simple setups, properly planned terrariums also rarely need to be entirely cleaned. Generally, the plants and micro-fauna living in the substrate help break down waste and do most of the cleaning for the keeper. In areas where large amounts of waste accumulate, such as a feeding area where feeder insects are dropped into the cage, it may be helpful to scoop out the substrate and replace it every few months. Soil mixtures based off of coconut husk fiber generally last a long time, and usually are good for at least three or four years. Those based off of peat moss or fir bark may spoil faster than those that consist largely of coconut husk fiber, and usually need to be changed more often. It’s important that the soil never becomes waterlogged or completely saturated with water, so providing good drainage is essential. Often the way a terrarium smells is a good indication of its health. A healthy terrarium will smell fresh and have a pleasant odor (pleasant for most people). A terrarium that stinks or smells like muck in a bog is not healthy and should have its substrate changed. Not all terrariums can go for long periods of time without a complete substrate change. Those that house large reptiles or amphibians, or contain a high density of small ones may accumulate waste too quickly for the beneficial critters to breakdown, and in this case the soil may need to be changed a few times a year to maintain a healthy environment.
Terrariums and vivariums are more attractive than simple cages and can be less work to clean. They are enclosed biological systems, and much of the cleaning that has to be done in simple setups is instead done by beneficial bacteria and micro-fauna in a terrarium or vivarium. Unfortunately, they are not maintenance free, and there is still a fair amount of work that needs to be put into keeping one healthy and clean. Removing large amounts of waste, doing water changes, cleaning the glass, and partially changing the substrate are some of the regular tasks that need to be completed in order to sustain a living terrarium or vivarium. When these are done on a regular basis most terrariums will survive for years, and even decades with minimal maintenance from the keeper.
Preluare de pe www.amphibiancare.com
By Devin Edmonds
The dream of many amphibian and reptile hobbyists is to create a complete living and thriving, self-sustaining, maintenance-free ecosystem that houses both live plants and animals. With proper planning it is possible to create a beautiful living terrarium that comes close the dreamed self-sustaining system. Beneficial micro-organisms and micro-fauna often play a large role in the health of a natural terrarium and do much of the work involved in maintaining it for the keeper. Unfortunately, these little creatures can’t do all the work, and some amount of upkeep is required by the caretaker in order to sustain a living terrarium or vivarium.
First off, what is a terrarium and how are they different from other types of cages? By definition, terrariums are miniature greenhouses. They are replicas of natural environments that contain live plants. The addition of live plants which help to breakdown waste in a cage is the difference between a terrarium and the average reptile or amphibian cage. A vivarium is a terrarium that is specifically designed to house and accommodate certain kinds of animals. Generally the focus of a vivarium are the animals that are being kept rather than the live plants. An aqua-terrarium or aqua-vivarium is a terrarium or vivarium that is designed for semi-aquatic plants and/or animals, and has a large water area and feature in it. The term paludarium is often used to describe two different types of enclosures. Most often it’s used to describe very large aqua-terrariums or aqua-vivariums that contain a variety of different habitats. Occasionally it is also used to describe an established vivarium that relies almost solely on beneficial bacteria and micro-fauna to maintain it. In all of the above habitats there is some maintenance required by the keeper. The actual amount of maintenance will vary depending on many things including the type of animal being kept, the amount of animals being kept, the amount and types of plants used, the size of the terrarium, the substrate, and other aspects of terrarium and vivarium design.
The most frequent kind of upkeep involved in most terrariums and vivariums besides basic plant and animal care (feeding animals, regulating correct temperature and humidity, etc.) is removing waste from the tank. When keeping insectivorous reptiles or amphibians, leftover dead feeder insects can create a lot of waste. Dead insects will often mold over in tropical terrariums and can become a source of unwanted waste. As a general rule dead insects should be removed from terrariums as soon as they are noticed. Fallen and rotting plants are another form of waste that is often overlooked. If a plant in the terrarium starts to rot or die it may need to be removed. A large dying plant in a small tank can create too much waste for the system to handle. Occasional fallen leaves usually don’t present a problem. Other common sources of waste that should be removed include large amounts of animal feces, shed skin, and infertile eggs.
A small amount of waste in a terrarium or vivarium is usually fine as long as the terrarium or vivarium is established. A terrarium that has had live plants in it for a few months will usually also have a large amount of beneficial bacteria and tiny little creatures that will help take care of and clean up some of the waste in the cage. Good micro-organisms can be introduced into the terrarium by mixing leaf compost from outside into the soil mixture. Unwanted micro-organisms can also be introduced along with desirable micro-organisms in leaf compost, and it’s important to understand this and weigh the risks before going out and grabbing a handful of leaf mold to toss into a tank. Unwanted pests include slugs, snails, and other animals that eat plants and reproduce easily, as well as possible parasites that could harm the plants and animals in the cage.
Water changes are another commonly overlooked part of keeping a healthy terrarium or vivarium. Just like in a simple amphibian or reptile cage, water changes need to be done regularly. Water dishes are very easy to change but often make a terrarium look unnatural. Instead of using a water dish, many people prefer to create a small pond or reservoir where water naturally collects in a lower part of the terrarium or vivarium. This works well and looks more attractive than a water dish, but it’s important that this water is still changed on a regular basis. When there is a large volume of well-oxygenated water, such in an aqua-vivarium or paludarium, it’s often best to rely on beneficial bacteria to control harmful waste in a similar way to that of an aquarium. In these setups partial water changes should be done every two to three weeks. Water tests should be done on a regular basis to ensure that good water quality is maintained. The use of a filter may also be helpful when a large volume of water is being used. When small volumes of water are present it is often a better idea to just do complete water changes often rather than partial changes infrequently. The addition of live aquatic and emergent vegetation will help reduce nitrates and make the water area more attractive.
The small volume of water in this terrarium is frequently removed using a turkey baster. The duckweed growing on its surface also helps to maintain good water quality.
Often the appearance of a healthy terrarium can be completely ruined if the glass is difficult to see through. Water spots are a common problem, and develop quickly if tap water or spring water is used to mist the terrarium. To help avoid this problem use distilled or reverse osmosis water to mist the terrarium. Condensation is inevitable and will always form on the front of the glass unless a large amount of ventilation is provided. Unfortunately, providing large vents or screen sections in the cage for ventilation can also drastically reduce the humidity in the terrarium in addition to preventing condensation from forming, and may not be practical for most terrariums or vivariums. Algae and cyanobacteria (blue green algae) often reek havoc on the glass of a terrarium, and may need to be wiped off frequently. Using a razor blade to scrape the front of the terrarium every week or two will help maintain good visibility by removing algae, mineral deposits, dirt, and other things that may make the glass difficult to see through. Do not use a razor blade on acrylic because it will scratch easily. Instead, using a paper towel or acrylic-safe algae pad to wipe the front of the tank can work well.
Many people new to terrarium keeping fear that the substrate of a living terrarium will need to be changed regularly like it does in a simple setup. Fortunately, in addition to being more attractive than simple setups, properly planned terrariums also rarely need to be entirely cleaned. Generally, the plants and micro-fauna living in the substrate help break down waste and do most of the cleaning for the keeper. In areas where large amounts of waste accumulate, such as a feeding area where feeder insects are dropped into the cage, it may be helpful to scoop out the substrate and replace it every few months. Soil mixtures based off of coconut husk fiber generally last a long time, and usually are good for at least three or four years. Those based off of peat moss or fir bark may spoil faster than those that consist largely of coconut husk fiber, and usually need to be changed more often. It’s important that the soil never becomes waterlogged or completely saturated with water, so providing good drainage is essential. Often the way a terrarium smells is a good indication of its health. A healthy terrarium will smell fresh and have a pleasant odor (pleasant for most people). A terrarium that stinks or smells like muck in a bog is not healthy and should have its substrate changed. Not all terrariums can go for long periods of time without a complete substrate change. Those that house large reptiles or amphibians, or contain a high density of small ones may accumulate waste too quickly for the beneficial critters to breakdown, and in this case the soil may need to be changed a few times a year to maintain a healthy environment.
Terrariums and vivariums are more attractive than simple cages and can be less work to clean. They are enclosed biological systems, and much of the cleaning that has to be done in simple setups is instead done by beneficial bacteria and micro-fauna in a terrarium or vivarium. Unfortunately, they are not maintenance free, and there is still a fair amount of work that needs to be put into keeping one healthy and clean. Removing large amounts of waste, doing water changes, cleaning the glass, and partially changing the substrate are some of the regular tasks that need to be completed in order to sustain a living terrarium or vivarium. When these are done on a regular basis most terrariums will survive for years, and even decades with minimal maintenance from the keeper.
Preluare de pe www.amphibiancare.com
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- Testos juvenil
- Mesaje: 14
- Membru din: 02 Apr 2007, 08:28
- Localitate: Suceava
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- Testos juvenil
- Mesaje: 14
- Membru din: 02 Apr 2007, 08:28
- Localitate: Suceava
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